As if it were a rallying cry, a call to action or the same fate pushing me out of this shell. I’ve spent years traveling and recent months I have spent in Oslo, working and fighting for some economic goals of which I’m sure not perform it, but those who know me already know that money doesn’t stop me, even so retain hope to earning more. No. The main reason for my stay in the Norwegian capital is a phenomenon that only happens at the poles at certain times of the year. That’s why when my friends told me they wanted to go to a cabin to see the northern lights I could not repress I’m going with you! And I went to the best way I know to get the sites, with Negrita 🙂
The planned route
This trip started badly planned on my part, I mistook the weekend! So when I read in the Whatsapp group on Monday that is five days left to go I was scared… I have nothing prepared! Fortunately I have resources and is able to prepare a route from one day to another, and friends who help you get beautiful to Negrita.
Thus began my adventure, without warning, to honor my beloved bike on the day of lovers. Yes I admit, Negrita is my passion, my creative desire, an ideal companion that helps me grow and build my life. Happy valentine’s day dear 🙂
In some sections of the city of Oslo there was snow, but it was when leaving Oslo when I found true roads covered with snow and ice. Thanks to the nail tires I got grip like dry asphalt.
Last year I had my first experience of freezing temperatures and snow, so this time I came out well prepared. At the beginning of the day we were at -10 ° C and were climbing up to -2 ° C. The most important point of traveling in winter is not over-heating so much as not to sweat, keeping dry is the most important thing.
The nº 4 road took me to Harestua and frozen lake. They have two lanes where snowmobiles clean daily the snow to leave an ice rink, perfect for skating, skiing or cycling. As you can see the tires behaved to perfection and I managed to put Negrita at 35km/h to pedal stroke 🙂
A thick fog rose from the west side of the lake. So much I entertained myself and had fun that it became night and I had to camp on the shore.
And so I spent my first night, dreaming of seeing the slightest greenish glow in the sky, but hardly the stars were visible. Too far south I found myself, I have to keep going up!
I continued to climb latitude on the world map where we find ourselves living. I have traveled many places in Europe and as you know, I have also traveled Norway from end to end, but the landscapes of this country overwhelm in winter. The most insignificant places in summer become true works of art in winter.
The road took me to the fjord called Randsfjorden. It is frozen the northern half of the fjord which is the shallowest zone. The boats are taken from the docks of the ports because when the water freezes they risk capsizing and turn the boat into submarine for the spring.
The panorama that I had in front while traveling in the southern half of Randsfjorden was spectacular. The second night I camped on the banks of the fjord near Horn. This area was also a place where Norwegians fought the Germans in the Second World War. The Norwegians lost the battle because they rushed to activate the traps, exploding the explosives ahead of time. Who was going to tell me that a Norwegian would rush?
But if there was something that startled my heart was seeing completely frozen the fjord. From then until the end of my route my heart was beating in love. Honestly if it was not I have to continue my work this March I would still be taking pictures on the road.
I reached the village of Dokka less than an hour of dusk. I could have tried to be hosted with the citizens of Dokka, as it was my third night as wildcamping and the weather was physically hard at -10ºC it wears. But I was convinced that I would see an aurora at some point… I could not see it, but I had time to play with the lights of the cars!
As soon as I started on Friday, I had to make the most fun of it. According to my plan, since it had failed to see the aurora by the way in tent, would be to see it in the cabin that same weekend. I decided that my “last day of pedaling” had to be great.
And I honestly had a great time. Thanks to the effort of the previous three days I only had forty kilometers ahead of me to pedal with a thousand meters up hill in accumulated ascent, so enjoy!
And the strongest part touched me at the end of the tour. Climbing the last three hundred meters in sixteen kilometers seems to be nothing, basically if we compare with the Tourmalet are a thousand and two hundred meters of unevenness in the same amount of kilometers, but it did exhausted me. Will not I go on skis?
I think few mountains have made me stop as many times as I stopped on the way up to the hotel, but the views would have made it stop to the coldest person in the world. I’m in love with the dusk 🙂
I arrived at dusk half an hour before my friends. We were hoping for an amazing weekend ahead in the hytte (Norwegian hut) where we enjoyed differents activities such as skiing or the spa with pool and sauna overlooking the Synnfjell mountain one thousand four hundred meters high. Thanks Spåtind Sport Hotel for the service and the book, I will keep it as a treasure! 🙂
And Sunday came… and we left the cabin without seeing the Northern Lights! Not accompanied day so we couldn’t enjoy the weather phenomenon but could enjoy something better, the company of my friends! Norway has one of the most incredible landscapes in all of Europe, but if something is going to streight me to leave this country will be all the people I have met, especially those that have touched my heart. To those who appear in the photo and those who is not there THANK YOU!
Lost in the north
But the disappointment of not seeing the northern lights active madness in me and, discarding all kinds of sanity, abandoned me to my fate once again in my life. I loaded Negrita with renewed energy and headed with a single course at the beginning, to the north!
My first destination was Lillehammer. To reach this city I first had to overcome a mountain of a thousand meters very snowy. The road covered with ice was constantly bumpy, the snowplows leave marks on the ice with the shape of the teeth of the shovel, for cars and other four-wheeled vehicles are not dangerous, but for a bicycle is like wanting to pass over of the tramlines.
The road took me to the city gave me a spectacular image of the frozen waterfalls. This image of eternal hibernation has such a magnitude that makes you dream in parallel worlds where magic still exists. Maybe somewhere on this site the ice queen still lives.
In Lillehammer I spent the night at the train station. I had several options ahead, specifically two. The first one was the initial one and less prudent for work: to continue on a bicycle until I’ll get to see a northern lights. Therefore, and looking at the application of the aurora borealis, it would have to overcome the arctic polar circle and that was more than a thousand kilometers away. The second option was to go to Bodø by train. I had just informed my manager that I would not return until I saw an aurora, but I did not want to waste so many days of work because I have a rent to pay and I could ruin the little money I have managed to save. So, although the train was expensive, it was the most viable option.
On my trip to Bodo I stopped in Trondheim. There, I went back to visit some points that I already knew but which continue to look incredible to me like the Nidaros Cathedral. Thank you Benni for welcoming me without notice!
I arrived in Bodø at 9:30 on Wednesday. I was once above the Arctic Circle for the third time in my life, yes yes, in the North Pole. It honestly is not colder than in southern Norway, but the icy wind made me feel tense skin as if I wanted to break some point. 🙂
In the city the trekking association informed me that there was a cabin/shelter on the top of the mountain called Keiservarden where I could bravely spend the night.
For more than four kilometers I had to push Negrita in the middle of a road covered with snow. Of the previous days were the furrows produced by a vehicle with wide wheels, insufficient to ride so that it couldn’t climb on the bike. It forced me to walk over the snow if I wanted to have the strength to push Negrita into the lane, since pushing her over the snow was an impossible task.
In the end, and with an incredible effort I managed to reach the top of the mountain. The accumulation of snow was such that to keep Negrita standing she did not need an stand, she standed alone!
As you can see I arrived in the evening. I could not have chosen a better time to arrive. My nose was frozen by the cold, my shoulders hurts from pushing Negrita and my feet shattered by walking in the snow. I had pieces of ice embedded even in the same sock! In the image above you can see the city of Bodø behind.
My main intention was to camp outside because the cabin was not closed tightly, but the strong wind forced me to change my mind. I cleared the cabin and installed my new tent inside. My idea of photographing the tent with the aurora was fading, but there are things in this life more important than show off.
The northern lights
And in the end the effort was rewarded. It started with a hunch. I had just finished dinner and warming the water for the hot water bottle Eva gave me, a super gift that helps me spend the nights at -15ºC. And I feel it being inside my tent. I went out and stared at the starry sky. Nothing is seen, only stars and some cloud. I walk towards the tent and I feel it again, as if something touched my heart and mind, I have to look again.
I looked to the west and saw something behind the cloud. The sky seemed to be illuminated with tiny, timid flashes of a whitish light that sometimes seemed green and in others, the less usual, purple. The wind forced me to fasten the tripod with stones so it would not flip over and break the camera. I trembled with emotion, I finally fulfilled my dream!
Back to home
When I fulfilled my objectives, I returned to the city of Bodø to catch a train to Oslo. But before that I had to go down that incredible mountain that gave me the best views wherever I looked.
Going down a hill with so much snow has its risks. I don’t usually fall but in this mountain I fell out three times, less badly than in cycling when you fall, you do not often have much damage. The chance put me to record just the area of the fall and it occurred to me to make this GIF. Do not worry about the fall but for what it takes to go to pick up the bike 😉
But luckily the effort was worth it and I could take photos like this. I sincerely believe that traveling in winter through Norway has been one of the experiences that have touched my heart the most.
In the end I got my train to Oslo after spending two nights lying in the ferry station. Luckily I was able to meet many travelers from whom I want to greet everyone and give my thank to my new two French friends Barbara and Justine for the company. Enchanté 🙂
I was back in Oslo after almost twenty hours of train. It has been a beating to the body but very gratifying to the soul. I do not know that the future will prepare us, but we will face it with joy and courage. May we never lose the eyes of the tiger!
In the spirit world
As happens whenever you make a goal, it comes to mind everything you’ve done to get here. I was recently asked, how I did it go so far? I always embellish the answer with an optimistic touch, or simply, if I have a lot of confidence, I tell the others that they are old. The truth is that I always say that it is a dream because even this phrase gives me energy and hope, but the truth is that like any other traveler, we go in search of an answer to a question that usually seeks the reasons for our existence . I once talked about what we offer to others ?, the real question should be what do we offer ourselves? Because if we do not offer anything to ourselves, what can we offer to others?
Finally, after the emotion and the posturing, I really looked at the sky. Not with the eyes, but with the heart and tears flowed from my eyes. This world of spirits opened up front me with a sky of green hope, and in it I could see that it offered me to myself. These last months I have been stuck and my mind has filled my heart with melancholy. A heart that I thought I’d broken for years and really thought were the reasons why I was able to do what I do. But no, I was confused. It is the mind that betrays us many times, making us see things that have not yet happened. The world is constantly charged with pessimism when we have no need for it. I know well that ninety percent of the people I communicate with today will not know anything about them in a year, but that should not be a reason to be sad. The life of the traveler, the one I chose, makes you know many people of whom, ten percent will dedicate to give you a I like what I have written and one percent will write you from time to time, doesn’t matters what relationship you have had before, family, friends, acquaintances or lovers. But the reality is that we should not stall in the past, or see the things that are coming, we have to live and enjoy the moment.
We all have our lives for which we fight, and I know that even if they do not talk to me, they do not do it out of spite, at the end of the day I’m the one who’s has left. I apologize for this, for not being in the difficult moments with my parents or my sister, or the weddings of my friends or being by their side in the most difficult moments for the loss of their loved ones, of not being able to be with the women I have loved. Someone told me that I had to learn to let go and at this moment I could not think of a better place to heal my soul than in the light of dawn. But I did not let go of the good moments or the people who reside in my heart. No. I let go of the bad thoughts, the ones that make me negative. I let go of the rancour, the one I had because they care more about the ones I’ve just met than those of my whole life, about the inheritance problems that touch my balls, that they send me messages of good days and sweet dreams and today I am nothing, everything that is not good for my mental health ¡bye, bye!
In the end only the aurora and I were left. I discovered that I offered me. Maybe I did not become the best man in the world, after all being a man (or woman) is not a competition, but I can offer to myself my best version. The one of the path of the purity although the society insists that we have to be intelligent so that they do not deceive us. I want to be faithful to my ideals against wind and tide. I will return to trust the world as I have always done. I will give everything to who I fell in love without fear, because I prefer to die knowing that I have loved deep to the soul. But above all, I want to offer myself my heart, because of everything I am is the most beautiful thing I have.
Thank you all for coming here to my side.
This post is dedicated to my parents and sister, the women who have dared to touch my soul, my fold and new, friends all those people I have met along the way and those I have left to know, To all the followers who know me through social networks and blog, absolutely everyone. Never has the energy that has driven me so far been rancour, hatred or a broken heart. What has always moved me was love THANK YOU! for participating in it